Showing posts with label Vietnam. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Vietnam. Show all posts

Friday, 31 January 2014

Happy Tết


Happy Vietnamese new year from Hanoi! I live right behind the flower market and just wanted to share some photos of the flower market - which goes completely crazy during tết! Think the Hanoi equivalent of Chadstone shopping centre just before Christmas.








Thursday, 23 January 2014

Why Madame Tây?



In Vietnamese, Tây literally means west, but the term has been liberally applied to describe any foreigner you might come across. Having lived in Vietnam for almost three years, being Tây continues to be inextricably tied to my identity. You carry the label with you where ever you go: from getting passport photos printed, where the storekeeper will jot down Tây in the blank space next to name; to weekend trips in the countryside where kids will run after you shouting Miss Tây or Uncle Tây. I won't go into this in more detail, since my friend Tabitha has already described it far more eloquently than I ever could in her blog here. When I started visiting the tailors, I noticed that many of our pieces would come back with a piece of paper labelled Tây sewn into the fabric to indicate that they were for me. Of course, having grown up as a second generation Chinese girl in Australia - where almost half the population has at least one parent who was born overseas the broad application of the term Tây sat for me somewhere between amusement and bewilderment. I remember the security guard for our small alley asking one day whether Sarah - my Jewish-American housemate - and I were sisters.

As we started this clothing project, we ended up producing clothes in Senegal and Vietnam by chance. Cara and I were skyping one day when she raised the idea. I live in Vietnam and Cara was planning to go to Senegal. One of the first questions we had was how to bring together clothing under our project which would inevitably be of two very different styles that reflect each countries own history, culture and fabrics. One small thing which ties together these two vastly different countries is their history of french colonialism for more or less a hundred years. The influence of the French differs greatly between the two countries. In Senegal, where French remains the official language the influence of French colonialism is very visible. It is important to note however that Senegalese society, whilst greatly influenced by the rule of the French, remains uniquely Senegalese - the top university in Dakar bares the name of Senegalese intellectual Cheikh Anta Diop who developed the notion of négritude - the promotion of a common black identity as a rejection of French colonialism, and although French is the official language, most Senegalese prefer to converse in their first language. Despite this strong Senegalese cultural identity, the influence of the period of French colonialism is undeniable and is present on institutional levels (the Senegalese educational and legal systems mirror the French systems) as well as more informally - all street signs and shop names are French, and you'll hear the French greeting 'ça va?' everywhere you go in Senegal. In Vietnam, french influences remain more subtle - but can still be found in the baguettes for sale every afternoon on the pavements in the old quarter, the french style seating in cafes - arranged for people watching - and the occasional use of Madame when addressing foreigners.

So we chose the name Madame Tây to serve as a reminder for a few things. The importance of adaptation (which would haunt us throughout the whole production process) - you may not understand how or why something works, but still need to trust that it does. The  magnitude of roots and origins - despite how desperate you may be to fit in - our roots, for good or for bad, mold the food we eat, the books we like and the clothes we wear and deserve due respect.  And finally that the world is a much smaller and more interconnected than it first seems.






Sunday, 5 January 2014

Nga - the Button Seller


Street life is ubiquitous in Hanoi. In the heart of the city, the old quarter is made up of 36 streets, each specialising in a particular craft. When it came to buying buttons and zips – there was only one place to go – button street on Hang Bo.  It was here that I met Nga, who owns a small button stall on the pavement outside 15 Hang Bo with her older sister Hoi. In Nga and Hoi’s small stall, I found the oyster shell buttons used on the Snow-White chemise, the gold exposed zips for the Paintbrush pencil skirt and the concealed zips for the Paintbrush dress.

Nga’s family comes from the village of Lang Co Dien around 10km outside of Hanoi, where for decades all the men in the village have traditionally sold glasses and the women have sold buttons. Her parents left their village in the 1950’s for the capital of Hanoi where economic conditions were better. In Hanoi, they continued their traditional crafts of selling glasses and buttons. Growing up, Nga and her sisters would help their mother to sell buttons, continuing even after Nga got a job in a state owned factory in her early twenties. After she got married and had children she left her job in the factory and started selling buttons full time, because she found that it gave her more flexibility to look after her young family. She started her own stall on Hang Bo at the age of 27 years old. Back then she was one of only a handful of other women selling buttons on the street – these women would help to transform Hang Bo, which was traditionally the place to sell bamboo baskets, into button street.

Today Hang Bo is jammed full for two or three blocks with button shops or people like Nga who set up temporary stalls along the pavement. Unlike the past, where Nga would sell small handfuls of buttons to individuals and tailors to make one or two pieces of clothing, many of Nga’s sales are now made to wholesale factories and tailors who buy buttons in bulk. After her husband was injured in the war, Nga’s button stall has helped her to become the breadwinner in her family.

However, for Nga the police have become a daily part of life. Despite the city’s bustling street life, a 2008 ban on street vendors has rendered the pavement side sellers, which so many people immediately associate with Hanoi, as illegal. When the police turn up she stashes her boxes of buttons and runs away, but from time to time when there is major crackdown on street vendors her goods will be confiscated by the police and she will need to pay a fine upwards of one million dong (AUD 50) for their return. When I ask why she doesn’t set up a formal shop to sell her goods, Nga responds that it is not financially practical to rent such a shop. Her button stall remains a largely family affair and Nga and her sister are regularly joined by Nga’s son and niece who help to sell buttons.

You can find Nga everyday from 7:30am to 7pm outside 15 Hang Bo. 





Tuesday, 31 December 2013

Partner Profile: Lan Anh, Vietnam


Meet Lan Anh – our tailor of the Peekaboo Dress and the Navy and the Snow-White Chemise. She has been tailoring clothes for more than 30 years, when her mother taught her to sew at the age of 15. After she finished school she studied with a friend’s mother who was a tailor and taught her to cut patterns. When she got married when she was 25 years old she left home and started her own tailoring business. On average, she estimates that she will make around 35 pieces of clothes each week and employs two staff to help her sew. I love working with Lan Anh because she has amazing attention to detail – all her pieces are beautifully crafted and that is why we have chosen to work with her on the Peekaboo Dress and the chemise – the simple classic pieces where the small details really count.


Visit Lan Anh on Lane 210 Doi Can, Hanoi.  

Saturday, 28 December 2013

Ladies Brunch and Clothes Fitting



After getting each piece tailored in a range of sizes, I invited a bunch of girls over and threw a ladies brunch + clothes fitting party! I had also recently gotten a new breadmaker, so it was also a chance to practice my breadmaking skills. We tested out each size on a number of girls of different heights and curves to test the sizing and cuts and make adjustments before going forward on producing bulk orders in each size. I also tested a few finishing options to see which buttons, zips and linings people preferred. The navy chemise, for example, originally came with three options for buttons - a classic white pearl button, a small marble button and a funky square yellow button. In the end almost everyone unanimously voted for the white pearl button!








Wednesday, 18 December 2013

Partner Profile: Binh & Thuy, Vietnam


Like most of Binh’s customers, I first came to know about him through a recommendation. Having run his own tailoring business for more than 20 years, Binh never advertises his services, so his customers learn about him purely through word of mouth.

Now 54 years old, Binh came from a family of tailors and has been working since he was 16. His parents taught Binh and his three sisters and brother to sew from a young age and they would help their parents in their small tailoring business. Today, all of his three sisters own their own tailoring businesses in Hanoi – one of them living and working in the house directly opposite Binh’s. His only brother has moved to Saigon and works in business, but Binh has stayed in the family trade - he notes that he likes to keep with traditions.

Although Binh’s parents worked as tailors out of same family home and shop where Binh still lives and works today, the backdrop was vastly different. His parents worked through Japanese and French occupation of Hanoi and the American-Vietnam War.  Back then, employing staff was restricted by law, so Binh’s parents worked on their own filling out a small number of orders each week. After his parents retired, Binh started his own tailoring business.

He first met Thuy in 1990 when she came as a customer to his shop to get some clothes tailored. Although Thuy worked in a clothing factory, she did not know how to make clothes herself as she worked only on her small part of the production line. After they married, Thuy quit her job at the clothing factory, Binh taught her the basics to sewing and tailoring and today she helps to sew zips and buttons and manages the finances. 

When he first started his own business, Binh worked by himself – as he explains, his expenses were low back then and he only needed to work enough to earn a small amount of money for food and other basic living costs. After getting married, he suddenly found he needed to spend a lot more money! As luck would have it, Doi Moi had taken place only a few years before and in 1994 the United States would lift  their almost 20 year trade embargo on Vietnam, opening up the country’s economy to international business and trade. Opportunities were ripe for small business owners like Binh and Thuy. At their peak, they employed 7 staff to support him and Thuy. However, the economic downturn that hit Vietnam in 2011 has also affected their business. Today, they have three staff who have been working with them for 20 years. Binh estimates that each day, they make together on average 10 pairs of pants and 5 dresses.

For each Madame Tây piece, Binh and Thuy estimates that it takes 3 hours to put together a skirt from start to finish and 4 hours to put together a dress.  They explain that each of these pieces take a bit longer to make because of the lining.

When I ask Binh what he imagines himself to be doing if he hadn’t been a tailor, he pauses for a while and then shakes his hands perplexed, tailoring he explains is his hobby. He points to the checked shirt and trousers he is wearing and his daughter My’s denim jeans, noting that they were all tailored by him.

You can find Binh and Thuy just around the corner from the Temple of Literature.

House 7, Alley Lương Sử B Quốc Tử Giám, Đống Đa, Hà Nội

Phone: +84 04 3732 1557













Tuesday, 10 December 2013

Nighttime Fashion Parade

One of my favourite Hanoian designers is Moniq by M. I love how all her clothing uses beautiful fabrics which feel so soft against your skin and her elegant box-like cuts.

image from Moniq by M tumblr: here


MONIQ BY M's "22" Collection from Giang Nguyen Hoang on Vimeo.

Needless to say, I was very excited to hear that Moniq by M was going to have a fashion show to launch her winter range.










I particularly love this kid in the front-row who has been tasked with photography duties. 




Thursday, 14 November 2013

A Trip to the Fabric Market

Let's start at Ninh Hiep fabric market, twenty kilometres from Hanoi - where it all begins. Tucked in between rice paddies and a rapidly encroaching urban sprawl lies Northern Vietnam's largest textile market, where everyday more than 1,000 local household traders gather to sell a plethora of different fabrics, zips and buttons. 

One of my favourite parts of the trip to Ninh Hiep is travelling across Long Bien bridge – a shared train-motorbike overpass which hangs over the Red River. Built by a pair of Parisian architects, the bridge survived numerous assassination attempts during the American War due to its strategic importance as the only bridge connecting the capital of Hanoi to the strategic port-side town of Hai Phong. Driving over the bridge you will pass palm-tree lined fields on your left and couples taking impromptu photo shoots on the train tracks to your right.



The street leading up to the market is lined for almost one kilometre by individual fabric stores – here you can see the stores preparing for the upcoming Typhoon Haiyan by lining their roofs with tarp.


These streets prepare you for the onslaught of choice that lies ahead. It is easy to lose several hours at Ninh Hiep wading through various fabrics and colours. There is no shortage of cheap synthetics as Ninh Hiep falls directly on Vietnam’s trading route with its neighbours in the North. Sellers have no qualms telling you that their cheap polyester fabric is actually 100% top-quality cotton. However, beautiful linens, silks and cottons lie amongst the masses even if they are not always easy to find.  Almost every Hanoian tailor who has spent the better part of their lives stitching and sewing by hand can tell you in a matter of seconds what each fabric is made of.

©Flickr/TrungHieu

Favourite purchases from the market include:
  • Cotton-silk fabric – I brought 55 metres in navy blue
  • Gold coloured buttons sold by the gram
  • Twilled-cotton blend in a unique blue/pink hazy floral print